1st July 2024
Opunohu Bay, Moorea, French Polynesia
The Rias of Spain are famed for their culture and food; and we hiked. The Balearic Islands are known for their blue water and raucous partying; and we hiked. The eastern Caribbean is famous for its European and African roots and epic sea battles; and we hiked. Moorea, in the Society Islands is no different. Everyone is wowed by the blue translucent waters, the abundant sea life and its majestic peaks and so……. we hiked.
As soon as the anchor hit the muddy bottom we turned our backs on the sea and headed inland in the company on SV Camdeboo. They’d sought out the aptly named ‘Pineapple Trail’ and like Ronseal, it did everything it said on the tin. There were pineapples everywhere. The only ground that wasn’t covered in pineapple plants were the vertical hills were our constant companions and cast long shadows in the afternoon sun.
Each plant only harboured a single fruit and we saw those fruits in every stage of development. Nestled inside these spikey plants were tiny buds that developed into minute pineapples only to reach their full potential in the form of pineapples no bigger than an apple!
Like the best of walks we had the opportunity to extend it, and Iain took it upon himself to sell the options. We could either take the dull boring soul destroying unrelenting road back to the boat or continue up the hill to sensational views, unforgettable wildlife and a magical ice cream stand. (He had no idea if there were any views, any wildlife and the ice cream was a fantasy thrown in for good measure. He just wanted to walk up the hill!).
Slogging our way up the hill the vistas opened up showing the boats bobbing the the bays far below us and brightly coloured birds flew in pairs in the dense canopy high above us. Then as rounded a corner we found……. a magical ice cream stand. It was almost as if Iain was a soothsayer and never again should his selling of amazing experience ever be called into question*.
While walking we discovered that our constant companions of the high hills, were actually the ancient rim of an extinct volcano and this needed exploring. Once again, after Iain put his sales hat on, we set out at dawn with SV Moana and SV Arvonna to conquer the crater.
As we skirted around the crater’s rim we looked down on field after field of pineapple and our companions were now horses and land crabs. The sun was relentless as it grew stronger, but we were shaded from its rays by the huge canopy above us and the air was cooled by the countless streams that flowed over the impenetrable volcanic rock.
After taking on the high peaks of the craters rim where we found abandoned villages, remnants of walled fields and plinths where kings once sat, we teamed up with the hardcore folks on SV Mindelo to put in yet more miles. Right from the outset Mindelo showed their hardcoreness. Before we even met up they walked miles from their boat and the previous day had taken on a walk which involved ladders, ropes and whole level of bravery that not even Iain could sell to Fiona.
With Mindelo for company everywhere we looked we saw produce. Passion fruits littered the paths, banana trees heavy with fruit blocked our way and pools of fresh water appeared right on cue to refill our water-bottles. Even our souls were being filled as this was a Friday and everyone we met was ramping up for a big night of competition.
The competition seemed to revolve around removing all semblance of comfort and safety from a car and replacing these sensible accoutrements with speakers, amps and volume dials that went all the way up to 11. These cars would then face off at every intersection where bass would shake the trees and the owners would be deafened, while assembled crowds looked on with bemused smiles. Quite who won was a mystery but our souls were nourished by everyone’s happiness and enthusiasm.
After walking our little legs off with every cruising boat we could find, its now time to head offshore to a whole new island group. In the Rias of Spain we went offshore and read books, in the Balearic Islands we went offshore and read books and in the Eastern Caribbean we went offshore and read books. Going offshore in French Polynesia should be no different….. we’ll be reading books.
* Usually when Iain tries to sell an amazing experience we end up walking around municipal dumps, along multi lane highways or up to viewpoints where there is no view. This was a very rare exception.
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